• 1980 Porsche 924 Turbo Specs

Last Updated on Thu, 29 Nov 2018 Rem ov ing1. Use fender and bumper protective covers.2. Disconnect battery ground cable at spare wheel well.5, Detach windshield washer hoses and engine compartment light wires.6.

1980 Porsche 924 Turbo Specs

944 Engine Removal & Inspection. Issue: #109, April 2002, page 133. Author: Jim Pasha. Length: 5-pages (3-pages of text, 2-pages of photo) Synopsis: Pasha begins a 2-part series on rebuilding the engine of a 944 Turbo. This particular piece deals with the removal of the engine, and then engine disassembly for inspection.

• The best handling Porsche in stock form.' Pasha, Excellence 924 Garage FAQ. 14 December 2002 09:38 AM. Introduction: Welcome to the 924 Garage FAQ. This FAQ is designed to answer most of the commonly asked questions that arise about 924's on the discussion boards and mailing lists.
• Porsche 924 Turbo. With 170 b.h.p. On tap, Porsche's turbocharged version of their 924 is claimed to be the most powerful 2-litre production sports car in the World. Engines for the Turbo are built and bench tested at Zuffenhausen along with the flat-six engine. The entire drive line has been beefed up to cope with the extra torque: the.

Disconnect engine hood supports at top, loosen engine hood bolts and remove engine hood.7. Remove cap from coolant expansion tank.8. Remove air intake hoses and entire air cleaner assembly.9. Place piece of wood (locally manufactured) on central tube and rear tunnel brace. Loosen and remove engine compartmentcross brace.cross brace.4. Set up hoist and align with specified pick-up points on car, but do not raise car.13.

Remove lower body brace.10. Detach splash shield at bottom.13. Remove lower body brace.11. Drain coolant from radiator. Detach exhaust pipes at exhaust manifolds and heat shields on left and right sides.15, Detach ground cable at body.11. Drain coolant from radiator. Detach exhaust pipes at exhaust manifolds and heat shields on left and right sides.12.

Drain engine oil.Remove water drain plugs on left and right side of ciankcase.15, Detach ground cable at body.16. Install and tighten oil drain plug to specified torque.17. Install and tighten coolant drain plugs to specified torque.TmrtmTRr18. Unscrew clutch slave cylinder at clutch housing and remove with line connected.NoteDo not operate.19. Remove mounting strap for pressure line to slave cylinder. Disconnect wires on starter.21. Remove clutch housing cover with starter.Disconnect release lever at ball pin by pressing release lever down in direction of clutch.22.

Open clamps for starter wires on steering cross member.23. Remove socket head bolts and slide back clamping sleeve on drive shaft.24. Unscrew throwout bearing sleeve mounting bolts and push sleeve in direction of clutch.25.

Disconnect left and right engine shock absorbers at control arms.26. Detach engine shock absorbers with left and right mounts.27. Cars with air conditioning: Detach wires on radiator.Disconnect plug leading to compressor (on right drive belt cover).28.

Loosen compressor, remove from console and suspend it with the hoses connected. Loosen and remove air pump filter housing.30.

Detach alternator cooling hose.Place engine on front cross member carefully. Remove second mount accordingly.32.

Detach all coolant hoses at radiator.33. Detach bottom oil hose at radiator.35. Remove clutch/engine mounting bolts.34. Remove engine mounts separately by applying a lifting force from one side to engine with a hydraulic jack, locally manufactured pad and an appropriate piece of wood on the oil pan, loosening the bolts, lifting the engine and removing the engine mounts.Place engine on front cross member carefully.

Remove second mount accordingly.32. Detach all coolant hoses at radiator.33. Detach bottom oil hose at radiator.31. Loosen lower fan shroud at radiator and remove.35. Remove clutch/engine mounting bolts.36. Lower car.37, Loosen and detach vent hose at T-adaptor for radiator and thermostat housing.38. Loosen and detach coolant hoses at thermostat housing.39.

Detach upper oil hose at radiator while counterholding.42. Disconnect B + wire, plug of transmitter wire to distributor and plug for engine.40. Loosen top radiator mountings and lift out radiator carefully.41. Open hose clamp and remove hose between heater valve and neck.43. Remove control unit.44. Detach ignition coil and place aside.45. Detach fuel feed and return lines while counterholding.46.

Detach hydraulic line at power steering pump.47, Detach oil hoses at supply tank of power steering pump, drain oil and remove tank.48, Detach brake booster vacuum hose at manifold.49. Disconnect operating cable for accelerator pedal and cruise control, remove holder and clamp, and place cables outside.50. Be sure to cover condenser on cars with air conditioning to prevent damage when removing and installing (e.g. Windows 10 trial expired.

With a wood board).51. Engage adapter 9137 (in conjunction with floor hoist) in the eyelets provided for this purpose. Raise adapter until tight on engine.NoteThis requires that car stands on its wheels52, Unscrew top engine block/clutch housing mounting bolts.Note the following for installation.1, Tighten nuts and bolts to specified torques.2. Add coolant until level is at edge of filler opening (position-heater lever at 'warm').3. Run engine to operating temperature and check coolant level, adding more coolant if necessary.Coolant level must reach center of expansion tank.53. Pull engine forward carefully and remove central shaft I with guide tube.54, Lift out engine.ENGINE; REMOVING AND INSTALLING (32-VALVE ENGINES) TOOLSNo.DesignationSpecial ToolRemarks.

I've pulled my motor both ways. Up top and from bottom. This time i did it from the top. Seems easier this time. Did it in an afternoon.take off:hoodfuel railclutch slavestarterexhaust maniairbox (if u still have it)steering rack from the crossmember for wiggling clearance.oil pressure senderengine mount bolts.

2 on each side.then just slide forward until torque tube comes out the bell housing, angle up to clear oil pan of the crossmember. Yank forward and up and out., 02:30 PM # ( ). I'd rather pull the motor than pull the gearbox and torque tube. Besides, once you have the motor out, you can easily throw in a fresh set of rod bearings and fix any hard-to-reach gaskets and such.

In my experience, pulling the motor is the faster and easier method. It seems intimidating when you think about doing it for the first time, but just dig in and it's really not too bad. I've taken part in more 944 engine swaps than I can even remember over the past 3 years.My preferred method is to pull the engine out from the top, rather than dropping it out the bottom. Just remove the power steering pulley from the crank, and preferably the accessory pulley as well, so that the engine will clear the hood latch.

Everything else is fairly straight-forward. Disconnect the usual lines and wires, disconnect the exhaust, support the engine with an engine crane, unbolt the motor mounts, unbolt the cross-member and let it drop so that the oil pan has room, disconnect the steering linkage from the steering rack to help that, etc. Would you say so for a clutch job as well?Yes, definitely. The one time we pulled a transmission and torque tube, it was a clutch job. After that experience, we just pull the engine now. The 944 transmission is actually kind of beautifully simple to deal with (I used to be a FWD guy, so the 944 is almost a pleasure), but dealing with the torque tube and engine bell-housing was more trouble than it was worth.

There's always a learning curve when you do a new method for the first time, but we would have saved a ton of time if we just pulled the motor instead. This was compounded by things not going according to plan. I forget what our problem was, but it was one of those stupid little surprises that ate up a bunch of time, and there wasn't a lot of room to work with. Resurrecting an OLD thread. I'm dismantling a 924S at the moment for some parts for mine and some to sell.

I've only just got my garage, and don't have a crane or anything at the moment, but taking the body off seems the ideal way to break it up.I've already got all the interior out of the car, and have taken off the lights, bumper and nose panel. I will take the doors, glass (including hatch and windsheild) out of the car before taking the body off. Has anyone who's done this got an idea how much the shell alone then weighs, and whether I'd need a hoist to lift it, or if it could be lifted by a couple of reasonably strong guys (or maybe 4 reasonably strong guys)?definitely looks a good way to go for me since my garage floor is cracked up so I'm nervous using jackstands.Mike.